JOE LEGGS

Technical Blog

996/997 Turbo, GT2 and GT3 Clutch and Gearbox

10/14/2016

 
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High-horsepower cars or dedicated track cars like this 997 GT3RS inflict a great deal of stress on their gearboxes, specifically their ring and pinion. This RS is in the shop for a clutch failure that wiped out the bell housing. We're going to take a look at a few things associated with these gearboxes and what we can do to help preserve them as we beat the tar out of them.


The gearbox is out and, as suspected, the clutch pressure plate is coming apart. The rivet that secures one of the springs has broken, allowing the spring to move out of position and cause damage. Use of the Sachs Competition clutch products in this application will prevent this failure.
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Here's a closeup of the damage to the gearbox housing. The inside of the bell housing has been cut away by the runaway spring. We've seen this before and this one isn't damaged beyond use.


The vehicle's owner elected to replace this section of the gearbox housing as well as remedy some other known issues caused by wear and tear. Here is an image of the new housing.
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This is glimpse of the gearbox shafts and how they are arranged inside the gearbox. Under heavy load, the pinion shaft will want to shift itself away from the ring gear(in the direction of the arrow), thus, exerting force on it's support bearing.



This is typically what the drain plug magnet looks like when a gearbox  has this issue. Monitor the noises your gearbox makes and check with your mechanic if you suspect you hear something out of the ordinary.
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When these gearboxes see hard on and off throttling, the pinion support bearing, AKA 4-point bearing, will become over-stressed and will degrade, causing a grinding noise that will resonate through the chassis in every gear at every speed. This bearing is retained by a plate and shimmed to a specific setting. Often, bearing wear will cause the shims to spin, too.




Here is a closeup of the hard stressed bearing race.
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This particular gearbox has seen some hard use. The pinion adjustment shims have been spinning on one side and have been moving around on the other side of the tensioning plate as a result of the force on the plate and the failure of the bearing. Note the grooves in the shim to the left and the debris stuck to the shim on the right.


Here's a close up of the tensioning plate on the side where the shim has been spinning, effectively machining out the surface. This tensioning plate will be replaced.
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Our course of action is to replace all of the shaft support bearings and tensioning plate. Here, the new plate and bearings are being installed.



Here, we are measuring clearances to set the preload on the pinion shaft bearings.
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Here we measure the pinion shaft position relative to the center axis of the differential. This step is critical to the smooth operation and lifespan of the ring and pinion. If this setting is not carried out correctly, the ring and pinion will be noisy and will wear prematurely. This step requires expensive tooling and training. 


The differential in this gearbox also had excessive slip caused by worn clutch plates. Factory diffs in the street cars tend to wear quickly. We were going to replace the plates and ramps but then we discovered that the bearing boss was worn out. This diff repair suddenly became a replacement. We decide to install a Guard Transmissions limited slip differential: a durable, high performing upgrade.
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Here is a pic of the old differential during disassembly. This special fixture is required to service the differentials.


After we finish installing the differential, we assemble the gear stacks, forks and housing. The final step in setting up the gearbox is the backlash(play between the ring and pinion). Special tooling required here, too.
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Gearbox oils of choice: Mobil Delvac 75W-90 and Mobilube PTX 75W-90, the latter of which can only be purchased through Porsche.
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Routine maintenance, regular inspections and keen eyes and ears can help prevent costly damage. If you are tracking your car or running high horsepower applications it is important to have your equipment checked more frequently. Wear and tear can never be eliminated in these situations but costly repairs can be avoided if an issue is rectified before it becomes severe.
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Oil Hose Repair and Rebuilding

9/14/2016

 
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In the day to day grind of a repair or restoration shop, parts are replaced and discarded without a second thought. If parts are available, which in most cases they are, replacement makes sense- the costs of restoring or rebuilding a component generally outweighs the cost of a new one. Inconvenience to all is lessened. It makes sense, right?

I tend to be nerdy about this stuff and I tend to be green, too. If I can rebuild it or repair it, I want to almost every time. I hate waste. Why waste a new part when the old one can be like new with a little work? In the early days of my journey into this field of work, the transition between rebuild and replace was beginning. Technicians were craftsman...they were rebuilding and repairing parts daily. Not so much to save their client's money but because it was the normal way of doing things. I learned that way. I accepted that way of thinking and still practice it in my daily work.

Oil Line Repair

While performing some restorative work to a 1977 911 Turbo, I was shocked to find that the oil pressure hoses connecting both to and from the scavenge pump were not available. My natural approach was to rebuild them. No problem- solution found. I rebuilt the cam feed lines, too. Here are some pictures of my repair.
This situation called for line rebuilding for a few reasons: 1. The vehicle's owner didn't want to upgrade to hydraulic chain tensioners. 2. he didn't want to replace the lines with 'new' looking lines that were zinc coated. He wanted to retain an original appearance.

This worked out nicely for the turbo feed and scavenge pump lines, too!

Thanks for reading!
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996/997 GT2, GT3 and Turbo Cooling Pipe Failure:  Prevent This Tragedy!!!

8/1/2016

 
Your worst nightmare: popping a cooling pipe on the back straight of your local track at 6,500 RPM effectively emptying your cooling system and overheating your engine in seconds. Luckily, the Mezger-based 996 and 997 engines are extremely resilient. This doesn't mean that you shouldn't prevent this failure from occuring. Successful ownership experience with a Porsche Turbo, GT2 and GT3 begins with preparation.

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'When' Not 'If'

Start preparing- there's no better time than now to take action. While you're beginning to budget and plan your repair, here are some factors to consider:

Pathology

The coolant block housings are made from cast aluminum while the pipe that the hoses clamp-to are made from extruded aluminum. Porsche engineers know that cast and extrusions expand and contract differently  so they secured the pipes into the cast with an epoxy designed to expand and contract as well. Due to the rapid temperature changes in the engine compartment(my theory) and other factors, the epoxy can work loose and leave you roadside(or trackside) with potential engine damage not to mention inconvenience and expense.

What They Look Like

Below is an image of a cooling pipe that has come loose. The epoxy(brown substance) is in some cases not strong enough to retain the pipe. Note the pink residue beneath: this is evidence of coolant leakage before the pipe actually popped out. In most cases, popping pipes can be prevented. Periodic inspection can catch this failure before it happens!
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Repair Options

Welding: At first glance, replacing the pipes and welding them into the cast housings looks and sounds great. Who can argue with how good this looks?

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Unfortunately, cast aluminum components are porous and don't react well to welding. The heat inflicted pores will increase in size and generally cause future leaks. We've seen some circumstances where welding the pipes works and doesn't leak. A good quality casting and a gifted welder can produce good results with the right amount of luck. After some time, however, they will most likely look like this:

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Again- more pink residue is a sure sign of a leaking coolant. Even after a bulletproof weld, this cooling pipe can't stop seeping.

Pinning: Another solution is to 'pin' the pipes to prevent their loosening.  Simply put, anchoring the pipes into their cast housings with a high grade epoxy that can expand and contract with the metal coupled with a bolt that secures the pipe is a viable, cost effective solution that wont' disrupt the metal and guarantee it's integrity. We prefer this method. Here's how it will look:

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The following method will produce a long lasting solution:
A hole is drilled and tapped to fit a stainless button-head allen screw.
The screw's length is equal to the thickness of the material so that it does not impede flow.
We use thread sealant on the screw during installation to prevent leakage.
The inside of the pipe is cleaned and wire brushed to ensure no debris remains after modification.

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Brake Service Our Way

3/18/2016

 
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Brakes: We need them. They, along with tires, are crucial to your car's performance and your survival while driving. What happens when your brake light warning turns on? This is a 2008 Porsche Boxster S and today we're going to examine the elements of brake service and why they're important.  


The brake warning light illuminated and the owner of this Boxster paid us a visit to find out why. We lifted the vehicle and removed the wheels. 
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This is a close-up of the brake components with the wheel removed. The rotor is connected to and turns with the wheel/tire. When you press the brake pedal, hydraulic pressure is applied to the pads via the caliper and the friction created by the pads clamping the rotor from both sides stops the vehicle. 

Here is another view of the caliper and the pads. As you can see, there is a pad on each side of the rotor surface that is pressed upon by the caliper in the direction of the arrows. When the pad material wears below a specified threshold, the rotor will contact the sensor which will turn the light on in the instrument cluster. 
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If the light is on and the pads are visibly worn to the point that the sensor is contacting the rotor, we know the pads will need to be replaced. The rotor is then measured for thickness and inspected for cracks, wear and damage. If it is beyond it's wear tolerances, it must be replaced. 
The holes in this rotor identify it as being cross-drilled. These holes allow heat and gases to escape during braking, effectively reducing heat which will ensure optimum braking performance and increase the lifespan of your components. When inspecting these rotors, it's important to check for cracks around the holes. Porsche fits cross-drilled rotors to a wide array of their cars. If your car was not originally equipped with them, they can be retrofitted and serve as an excellent upgrade! 
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Here is another photo of the brake components with the sensors, pins and anti-rattle springs removed. The weights attached to the pads help absorb vibration. 



Here the caliper has been removed from the vehicle and cleaned. The pads and silencers have also been removed. 
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The caliper to spindle mating surfaces are cleaned to ensure proper fitment. If the surfaces are dirty, the caliper may not fit squarely which can cause issues down the road.  This step is often overlooked during a brake service. 

The rotor is removed from the hub, which is also cleaned thoroughly. The hub is the component that the rotor and wheel are fitted to. If there is any dirt or debris present on it's mounting surface, this can cause lateral runout which will wear the brakes and tires unevenly and may exhibit vibration issues. 
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A close-up of a clean hub. Hubs can become worn or damaged as a result of impact during a collision or simply running over a curb or pothole. If the hub becomes bent, it cannot be straightened and must be replaced. Inspecting, replacing(if necessary) and even cleaning a hub is an important step often overlooked in diagnosis or repairs. 

Overview of the replacement parts is shown here. Often times, the bolts that connect the brake caliper to the spindle are found to be bent. The force applied to them during braking causes fatigue and they eventually cause the caliper's position to shift. We replace these bolts during every brake service to ensure the caliper is seated where it is supposed to be. 
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This is a close-up of the new silencer and the new pad. The silencers are adhesive backed and stick to the back of the pad. The two dowels(shown) fit in to the inside of the caliper pistons when installed. Their purpose is to reduce vibration and thus reduce braking noises such as grinding and squealing. Porsche recommends that they be replaced when pads are replaced. Most repair shops, even dealerships, don't adhere to this advice and reuse old silencers. We replace them every time new brakes are fitted to your car. A Porsche not only requires new silencers, Porsche's deserve new silencers. 



A new rotor is fitted and the caliper is mounted with new bolts and torqued to specification. 
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Side view of the caliper in position. Ready for silencers to be installed. Note the holes in the caliper pistons. 


New silencers have been installed in the calipers. The adhesive backing has been peeled up. We're ready for pads, ladies and gentlemen!
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Pads installed, along with the sensors, anti-rattle springs and pins. The springs place constant tension on the pad backing plates to aid in reducing vibration and noise. The sensors wiring is routed and fastened to prevent rubbing on other components. 



Porsche recommends replacing brake fluid once every two years. 
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This concludes the briefing in a standard ATX Autosport brake service! Remember- not all brake jobs are created equal. The work that one repair facility performs may differ from another. Consider all elements in the equation: the type and quality of the service, parts/labor, desired out come-all of these are important. 
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Fuel Injection Pressure Hose Repair

12/15/2015

 
Nearly all of the Porsche and Ferrari production cars assembled between the late 70's and the late 80's were equipped with Bosch CIS mechanical fuel injection system. The Bosch CIS(Continuous Injection System) is a durable, fairly efficient and maintenance-free injection system designed to compensate for altitude, cold and warm starts as well as real time mixture by way of the Lambda(Oxygen) Sensor.

The two enemies of this system are storage and age.  Each of these cause a CIS Injection system to develop leaks and corrosive buildup. These issues can be prevented by periodic inspection and strategic repairs.

Don't be scared off by a CIS injected vehicle. These systems have proven their reliability time and time again, as many cars on the road today still run the original injection components. Maintained properly, these systems will provide years of solid, dependable service. Here's a glimpse of a repair we performed recently on a mid-eighties powerhouse!

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During a maintenance inspection, we noticed this hose beginning to leak fuel at the weak point caused by a kink in the teflon hose. If we hadn't spotted this leak, who knows what danger would have befallen this classic!



The repair begins with cutting off the original ferrules and inspecting the original fittings.
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Once the fittings are clean and inspected, we  determine if they can be reused. These particular fittings did not require replacement.



New hose and ferrules are procured from the original manufacturer of the hose and fittings.
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Each hose is assembled paying special attention to the original indexing(relationship between each end fitting) of the hose/ends.



This fuel supply hose is now ready to provide decades of loyal service!
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997 Turbo, GT2 Camshaft Adjustment Failure, Fault Code P0021

6/3/2015

 
One of the reasons that we love the Porsche 997 Turbo/GT2 so much is their Variable Turbine Geometry's reduced lag. This, coupled with Variable Valve Lift and Timing(on the intake cam, at least) help this engine deliver smooth and powerful performance throughout it's range of RPM. Let's take a closer look at why this is so badass.

Porsche's VarioCam Plus

VarioCam Plus is Porsche's unique way of utilizing your engine's oil pressure to activate an adjustment inside an variable camshaft sprocket to actively(while the engine is running) adjust camshaft timing(see the change in red below). Changes in valve lift occur when oil pressure is directed to affect the two-stage lifters. These lifters will lock and open the valves further with the help of special camshafts thus increasing output.

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In this image, you can see the two-stage lifter highlighted in orange and blue- the center of the lifter operates the valves. In this position, the valve is being operated by the center camshaft lobe.


Here, we see that the lifter is in 'locked' position and the valve is now being operated by the outer, larger camshaft lobes. These lobes open the valves further and keep them open longer for increased performance.
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Comparing the red shaded portion of this image with the image above. This illustrates the change taking place inside the variable camshaft sprocket. The center of this device drives the cam. The outer housing is driven by the chain. The performance difference takes place when the relationship between the chain drive and the camshaft changes.
These adjustments to cam timing and valve lift are activated by the DME(engine control unit) by way of solenoids that open, allowing pressurized oil flow into their given chambers. When this activation is interrupted for any reason, the DME registers a fault. 

Fault Code P0021

This fault occurs when camshaft timing activation is inhibited. There are several reasons that this fault could occur but the most common reason is blocked oil flow into the variable cam sprocket. When this happens, the camshafts must be removed and repaired/replaced in order for the fault code to clear.

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Here, we have removed this turbo engine for this repair. The turbochargers, oil sump, headers and plumbing must all be removed to access the camshaft covers.



Here, the intake cam is removed. Note the two-stage lifters.
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A sleeve that is pressed inside the camshaft rotates, causing the oil passage to be interrupted.


The holes in the cam/sleeve should line up perfectly. In this closeup image, you can see that they are not aligned. The fault occurs when this hole is completely blocked.
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We correct the alignment of the sleeve and insert hollow pins to prevent future rotation.
This is a common issue on the 997 Turbo/GT2 engines. Luckily, no damage occurs during this failure. The repair can be performed quickly and the vehicle can be back on the road in a short period of time. Thank you for reading!!!
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Cayenne Cooling Pipe Failure

10/2/2013

 
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I doubt the engineers at VAG expected this to happen. And that's okay, right? We're human and this is no Radio Flyer wagon. The early Cayenne models that are equipped with V8 engines have an achilles heel: The plastic pipes that carry coolant located underneath the intake manifold are cracking, effectively spilling coolant to the external surfaces of the engine: right where you don't want it to be. This causes inconvenience, unforseen expense and grave disappointment because it's a Porsche Sports SUV and this kind of thing just shouldn't be happening! Here is a glimpse of this unfortunately common problem and what we do to solve it. Click on the photos to enlarge and read on...... 


We begin our process by prepping our workspace and covering the vehicle's front end. Next, a pressure test of the cooling system confirms the leak, dripping down the back side of the engine. 
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The covers in the engine compartment are removed for access, as are the air injection pumps, mounting brackets and "dog-bone" engine stabilizer. 


The intake manifold , throttle body and intake pipe are removed here. Note the blue towels- they are placed into the intake ports to prevent debris from entering. Open ports tend to swallow dirt and hardware.
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Here is a closeup of the components. The thermostat housing is removed and cleaned. The thermostat and bleeder hose are both items that have a lifespan. When we do this job, we prefer to replace these because they can become issues down the road. 


The cooling pipes break upon removal. We pay special attention to removing any and all pieces, debris and build-up on the aluminum manifolds. This is crucial to long-term integrity of the cooling system, however, and a very tedious process. 
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The large diameter aluminum cooling pipe is installed with the new rubber coupler hose and new heavy duty hose clamps. We position the hose clamps this way to provide access without interfering with any other component. 
The upper aluminum cooling pipes are installed along with the new thermostat, housing gasket and bleeder hose. The new pipes are o-ring slip fitted into the block and thermostat housing assemblies. 
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The intake manifold is then installed with new gaskets. All other components are assembled and installed. We vacuum fill, bleed and pressure test the cooling system to ensure our work is solid and leaks are licked. After we're happy with it, we take it out and do donuts in the parking lot:)
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     Joe Leggs

    Husband,  Father,  Technician

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